In Gundel’s heyday, as many as 3,000 plates of food were served each day. It was packed from opening to closing time; there was a huge amount of work going on in the kitchen, and the host, Károly Gundel, welcomed guests in person.

Gundel was renowned for its fantastic dishes, its in-house culinary specialities, its friendly atmosphere and its hospitality.

It was not fashion or money that drove Gundel. Guests went there because, as well as being able to discover flavours they’d never tasted before, they were treated to a welcome that made them feel at home, allowing them to enjoy life and savour the moment. The children ran about the garden to their heart’s content, sometimes even getting to play with one or two of the 13 Gundel youngsters, whilst the 11-piece band played until sunset. The Gundel Palace and its breathtaking garden were open to everyone, regardless of rank or status. If anyone simply fancied a modest meal, they were not disappointed: among other things, delicacies such as boiled eggs in goulash sauce, sausages in broth or savoury pretzels with draught beer were served on the terrace. We can almost picture Pál Jávor breaking into song at a table laid with a chequered tablecloth, in the shade of the giant trees, in the company of a beauty from that era.

At the same time, this is where the staple dishes of modern Hungarian cuisine were created: these include, amongst others, chicken paprikash, Bakony mushroom ragout and Carpathian pike-perch. The greatest and most successful creations, however, were the desserts: Somlói galuska, Gundel pancakes and Rákóczi cottage cheese cake.

Gundel’s was frequented by renowned Hungarian politicians, artists, writers and sportspeople. Gundel took great pleasure in creating special dishes for his famous guests, which he named after them. This is how, amongst others, Munkácsy-style eggs, Újházi chicken soup, Jókai bean soup and Feszty beefsteak came into being. Gundel introduced the culture of sauces and ragouts to Hungarian cuisine, and it is also thanks to him that the Wiener Schnitzel became known in Hungary! With astonishing perseverance, he tasted his way through sauces, gravies and stews concocted from various ingredients and in different proportions; he spent months perfecting the Bakony mushroom stew, for example. He did all this without ever having cooked a meal or even held a wooden spoon in his life; he was a writer and a born restaurateur, but cooking was not his trade. Thanks to his efforts, however, Hungarian cuisine has found its place on the world’s gastronomic map!

He also thought of those who were unable to visit him. It was important to him to ensure that Hungarian culinary culture would be preserved and made widely known, which is why he published several literary cookery books, which were published in a number of languages.

Gundel has always been a must-visit destination for world-famous public figures. Over the 127 years of its existence, the restaurant has been visited by most of the celebrities who have come to Budapest, including Pope John Paul II, Queen Elizabeth, Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands, Luciano Pavarotti, Angelina Jolie and Arnold Schwarzenegger.

Károly Gundel didn’t really have any secrets. Just a huge heart and a wealth of knowledge. He kept neither to himself. He shared everything – both his knowledge and his love – with his guests; whoever came to see him, as a host, he welcomed everyone with open arms. His ‘secret’ was really just a value – a value worth returning to. It is only by following this that it is worth starting afresh.