Hungary’s iconic restaurant has reopened, and not just in any old way. They have plenty of surprises in store.

The Gundel restaurant, often referred to as a shining star of the Hungarian hospitality industry, has reopened in all its splendour. Gundel, which plays a vital role in preserving the traditions of the hospitality industry, has been given a fresh new look.

Gundel – the beginnings

The restaurant opened in 1894 and has borne the name of Károly Gundel since 1910. From that point on, the restaurant enjoyed its heyday, as its owner was a gastronomic „visionary” of his time. He owned several prestigious catering establishments, which he ran to the highest standards. Perfection was always his hallmark – and it was in keeping with this philosophy that he created his new dishes.

„The Gundel Restaurant provides Budapest with better publicity than a shipload of tourist brochures,” wrote The New York Times in 1939.

Károly Gundel, the culinary innovator

Károly Gundel’s name is associated with several dishes that he created. We can safely say that, by now, these have become Hungarian specialities. We enjoy them at home, and they are what tourists come looking for. These well-known dishes – Jókai bean soup, Bakony mushroom ragout or Gundel pancakes, Újházi chicken soup, Munkácsy-style eggs or Feszty steak – but let’s not forget that it was the Gundel dynasty who introduced the Wiener Schnitzel to Hungary.

Gundel – the present

In May 2021, the Eventrend Group took over the running of the world-famous Gundel and Bagolyvár restaurants. The Group is one of the leading players in the Hungarian gastronomy scene, with a portfolio of nearly fifty different projects. (New York Kávéház, Városliget Café, the Spoon Boat, Főőrség Café in Buda Castle, Centrál Café, Fakanál Restaurant in the Great Market Hall, and Séf Asztala on Kossuth Square, which quickly became a hit with the public.) The Eventrend Group’s portfolio includes five provincial hotels and catering services for numerous major event venues, such as the Papp László Arena, Groupama Arena and MÜPA.

Gundel now forms part of a group renowned for its high standards of professionalism, and they prepared for the opening with due humility and a surprising concept. The vision they have realised is based on a slogan that is simple yet rooted in a profound philosophy: Back to our roots!

Back to our roots

Gundel essentially served everyone in those days, and it wasn’t just the wealthier members of society who could afford to use their services. Anyone could sit in the garden – which was decorated with plants brought over from the zoo – for a refreshing drink or a pretzel, but even if someone simply wanted to enjoy a good cup of coffee, they could sit down without feeling out of place. As for the food, „in keeping with the fashion of the time”, the menu featured almost everything, so anyone could find dishes to suit their budget. Naturally, there were also specialities in store for gourmet guests.

The revitalised Gundel follows precisely this tradition. They have created a space that remains true to Gundel’s traditions, evoking the atmosphere of a coffee house, whilst at the same time ensuring that it is open at all times of day, for every occasion, and to the widest possible range of guests.

They envisaged a space with three distinct functions that nevertheless blend seamlessly together. The outdoor seating area, which is not expected to open until spring, will – as we’ve already learnt – recapture the atmosphere it once embodied. The majority of the interior is, in fact, a true classic café! The refurbished interior creates the charming atmosphere one would expect. Small tables without tablecloths, plenty of decorative touches, little lamps and, in the centre of the room, a beautifully restored horse-drawn carriage. It’s not just a visual feature, but will also function as a stage, as entertaining guests involves more than just eating and drinking. Gundel’s own all-female band will be playing all day, performing 15-minute musical sets every hour, whilst a beautiful mahogany Petrof piano will provide the background music. The restaurant area is situated on the upper floor of the interior, where beautifully laid tables await those wishing to have lunch or dinner.

A passionate chef is at the helm of the kitchen – Viktor Moldován

Gundel’s head chef is a worthy representative of the Gundel legacy. Viktor Moldován returned home after a distinguished career abroad. In Japan, he introduced authentic Hungarian cuisine and shared our gastronomic traditions with the local public. One thing is certain, however: alongside his extensive gastronomic knowledge, he has mastered Japanese precision.

He is passionate about Hungarian cuisine, so no one could carry on Gundel’s traditional style better than him. Viktor Moldován is assisted in his work by András Wolf, one of the Eventrend Group’s corporate chefs; in fact, the two of them lead the kitchen team. They are supported in their work by chef János Kovács and pastry chef Györgyné Dudok.

Prices are also in line with the ‘back to our roots’ concept. In the café, breakfast dishes start from 2,000 Ft, main courses from 4,000 Ft, and classic Gundel desserts from 2,000 Ft. As the revamped Gundel welcomes guests at any time of day, anyone can pop in for two world-famous Gundel desserts and a soft drink, for as little as a few thousand forints for two people.

In the restaurant area at dinner time, whilst you are free to choose from the menu, only 3- or 4-course set menus may be ordered; the 3-course menu costs 12,300 Ft, whilst the four-course menu will cost 14,400 Ft, served on Zsolnay porcelain with silver cutlery and a damask tablecloth.

Over the past 125 years, Gundel’s reputation has spread across the globe, thanks to world-famous public figures, queens and Hollywood celebrities. Anyone who loves tradition and fine dining can once again enjoy Gundel’s hospitality. Guests are treated to such fantastic dishes as Tokaji with goose liver, goulash soup, Palóc soup, Újházy chicken soup, chicken paprikás, Feszty sandwich, Mangalica pork Bakony-style, Fogas Kárpáti, Somlói Galuska, Gundel pancakes and Rákóczi cottage cheese cake.

As well as the dishes known as the ‘National 11’, there are, of course, many other dishes awaiting guests, which are a must-try as they offer an unmissable experience for everyone.