It reminds me of those winter evenings spent at my grandmother’s, with the larder full of portions laid out on plates.

Strange bits of meat peek out from the congealing jelly, but those who like it can eat a fair amount of it – though, of course, only with fresh country bread; rye bread and other varieties are out of the question. This is aspic, the best pure and natural source of collagen, packed with energy. Yet not everyone is keen on it; many are put off by its wobbly texture. If you’re not convinced by this, don’t read any further, because from here on it’s all about ears, tails, feet and other body parts – or as the joke goes: heat up the aspic and it turns into meat broth. 

Kocsonya is a winter dish, and not by chance. On the one hand, there’s a practical reason for this: as it needs to be kept cold to set, and in the old days, without fridges, it could only be stored in the larder. On the other hand, this dish is not only a perfect source of collagen, but it is also filling and heavy – we wouldn’t even fancy it in summer. That’s just how it is András Wolf, who is also the corporate chef at Gundel Restaurant and A Séf Asztala, and for whom kocsonya was a constant feature of his childhood; although he, too, only used to eat it in winter, he’d love to try a summer version, though, of course, only after having eaten watermelon in winter. 

„When I was a child, they used to make two different kinds at home: the traditional version made with pork, and my grandmother’s ”falsche fish’, or fake aspic. ‘It’s made in the same way as gefilte fish, or stuffed fish, except that we used chicken instead of fish,’ explains András Wolf.”. 

For the ‘falsche fish’, the chicken breast was minced, seasoned with root vegetables, carrots and turnips, and then the mixture was shaped into meatballs. The base for the aspic remained the same; the only change was that a large quantity of chicken feet were boiled into it to achieve the right consistency. Finally, the meatballs were added and boiled in the mixture, and this is how the ‘fake’ aspic set. 

András Wolf often surprises his friends with his grandmother’s style of aspic. It even appeared on the menu at A Séf Asztala once, but only a select few – those who are familiar with it – order this version. 

„This was my grandmother’s recipe. As I didn’t like the ears and other bits, my mum used to cook it with all sorts of other meats, and she’d portion out the aspic so that everyone got the bit they liked best. My mum had another trick up her sleeve. Before straining the stock, she would crush 2–3 cloves of garlic and pour the hot stock over the fresh garlic. This gave the whole aspic a much more pleasant, piquant, yet subtle flavour. You really have to experience the sensation of the scent of fresh garlic hitting you as you lean over the dish,” – explains András Wolf, who introduced this tradition to Gundel in collaboration with executive chef Viktor Moldován, so the aspic is prepared in the same way at the restaurant. 

The recipe can be refined even further.

Gundel’s corporate chef, for example, prefers the fattier cuts of meat, so he always includes the shoulder in the stew, perhaps adding the neck as well, and of course the snout, ears, tail and everything else that goes into it mustn’t be left out.

The proportion of vegetables is minimal – just one or two pieces of carrot per pot – to ensure it doesn’t turn out too sweet. 

Kocsonya is prepared in two ways: diners at Séf Asztala can sample the traditional version, which this year has been enhanced with a little smoked meat, whilst at Gundel they can order the sophisticated version – if one can describe kocsonya in such terms. The method of preparation for the latter also differs slightly from the traditional one. 

„We cook the base stock for the aspic in the same way, with the meat in it. We make a mixture of chopped-up pieces from the shoulder, tail, snout and the fattier, meatier parts, and place this on top of the kocsonya, which is then garnished with a refreshing salad with a touch of horseradish. We then sprinkle the top with a very small amount of smoked paprika,” explains András Wolf. He believes that for those who are put off by aspic, this version might be just the thing, as it can help overcome their prejudices by ensuring they do not encounter the „strange” ingredients in their original form; in this aspic, the broth and meat dominate. 

Kocsonya, however heavy it may be, is a starter that is definitely best served with bread – and good-quality country bread at that. Many people eat it with lemon or vinegar, but András Wolf leaves these out; he prefers to serve it with pickled hot peppers. The main thing is to eat kocsonya whilst it’s still cold.

Here is András Wolf’s recipe for kocsonya:

Makes 30 portions of basic aspic

Ingredients:

1000g of pork skin

850g pork knuckle

5 pig’s trotters (1,900–2,000 g)

5 pig’s ears

5 pork tails

2,000 g pork shoulder 

150 g carrots

500 g red onions

500 g garlic + 50 g for straining 

15 g whole peppercorns

40 g parsley root 

100 g salt

12,000 g of water

Place all the piglet and pork parts in cold water to start cooking. Simmer gently, skimming off the foam, and once all the white scum has been removed from the surface, add the vegetables and spices. Cook for about three hours over a low heat, keeping the stock at a gentle simmer. Turn off the heat and leave to rest for half an hour, then strain the stock through 50 g of crushed raw garlic. This will give our aspic a fresh, aromatic flavour. Place the meat and boneless pork cuts in the bottom of the dishes, carefully pour the stock over them, then leave to set in the fridge. When serving, add fresh sourdough bread, along with grated horseradish, vinegar or lemon to taste.