Over the past 130 years, heads of state, queens and Hollywood celebrities have taken their seats at Gundel’s tables. That is why, in its day, each table was dedicated to a famous guest or a Gundel heir, chosen from the many hundreds of public figures, well-known stars, politicians and artists who have dined here over the past decades.
That is how Zoltán Latinovits, Elizabeth II, Antonio Banderas, Angelina Jolie, Larry Hagman and Arnold Schwarzenegger all managed to get a table.
Back when she was still Lizse
A hundred years ago, the restaurant’s garden was also frequented by people who could only afford scrambled eggs, salted pretzels, beer and sausages. Gundel’s proximity to the City Park was a defining factor; here in the park, families with children visiting the zoo, the „common folk”, soldiers and servants would take their Sunday strolls.
The most prestigious Hungarian restaurant – which was originally known as „Wampetics” – has a history that perfectly mirrors that of Hungary. There were low points, but they managed to create truly delicious dishes even from the cheapest ingredients. The restaurant held a high standing even under the socialist system; and during György Láng’s tenure, under the culinary guidance of the legendary chef Kálmán Kalla, it truly soared to new heights.
Gundel is now managed by the Eventrend Group and has recently undergone a revamp, both in terms of its appearance and its ethos. One important aspect of this was revealed to us a few days ago. The slogan: Gundel belongs to everyone.
People with visual and hearing impairments are also welcome guests
The idea that ‘it’s for everyone’ now means something different: from now on, people with hearing and visual impairments will receive special attention. The waiting staff have learnt basic sign language in both English and Hungarian, whilst those with visual impairments can discover the stories behind the dishes at Hungary’s most famous restaurant via a Braille menu. A short film has also been produced, directed by Péter Bergendy.
A Braille menu detailing the history of the dishes helps to ensure an even higher standard of service for visually impaired guests. In addition to all this, accessibility is also a priority within the restaurant premises.
Carrying on Károly Gundel’s legacy
Gundel is particularly proud that its team is made up of such an inclusive community, which works day in, day out to ensure that everyone feels at home here,” said Jenő Magyary, Gundel’s managing director, before emphasising: alongside legendary hospitality, social responsibility and sensitivity are also important. These have always been part of Gundel’s core values and have shaped the attitude of those who work here, which is now also evident in the way guests with visual and hearing impairments are welcomed.
The two owners of the Eventrend Group, which runs Gundel, Zoltán Kőrössy and Gábor Nagy, recalled that Károly Gundel ran the City Park restaurant – founded in 1894 and later named after him – with the intention that its doors should be open to everyone.
Back when Zoltán Latinovits used to play in the garden
Perhaps not all members of Generation Z realise that this building was also the home of the Gundel family. Zoltán Latinovits was born here, and Károly Gundel lived here with his 13 children and their descendants. What’s more, it was never merely a restaurant, but an integral part of Hungarian artistic and social life.
Károly Gundel was constantly experimenting with new recipes: it was here that Palóc soup, chicken paprikash, Bakony mushroom ragout, Kárpáti-style pikeperch and Tokaj goose liver were created. He also established the tradition of the Hungarian-style sauces and ragouts we know today. It was on his terrace that Jókai bean soup, Bakony mushroom ragout and Gundel pancakes were first served.
The dishes were named after the regulars
Károly Gundel named various dishes after his favourite regular customers. This is how, for example, the Újházi chicken soup came to be, named after the actor Ede Újházi, the Jókai bean soup, Munkácsy-style eggs and the Feszty steak. Few people realise it, but they were also the ones who introduced the Wiener Schnitzel to Budapest.
As for today’s selection, it naturally varies from season to season, but the core of the menu didn’t need to be written, as it’s been in place for 80 years – or so I’ve heard from the chefs. The centrepiece of the menu is the ‘National 11’, the eleven iconic Gundel dishes that are regarded as part of the restaurant’s gastronomic heritage. High-quality ingredients, preserving traditions, and precise, uncompromising workmanship – that is the culinary motto.
What is Romani music like in the 21st century?
Several generations have now grown up whose members have no idea what a ‘musical café’ is as a genre. Well, here the sound of the piano has been brought back to life every day, and the music of the restaurant’s own Romani band can now be heard even during the day.
Perhaps few people realise that, in the early 1900s, gentlemen would often be driven to the Liget with a Roma band travelling behind them in a separate carriage, providing music along the way. When they are not playing, live piano music is played.
Throughout the day, you can pop in for a good cup of coffee, served with the most famous cakes. In the evenings, the restaurant area opens on the gallery, where dinner guests are served in aristocratic style, with Zsolnay porcelain and silver cutlery.
After Japan, we’re off to Városliget
Viktor Moldován, a highly skilled young chef, ran a Hungarian-style restaurant in Japan for 14 years, during which time he mastered the consistent and precise Japanese work ethic and kitchen organisation. Someone who kept authentic bejgli, Bácska-style rice and meat stew and chicken paprikash on the menu 8,500 kilometres from Budapest, and whose cooking is adored by Japanese guests – that is truly a lover of Hungarian cuisine. He is supported in his work by the highly respected András Wolf, one of the corporate chefs at the Eventrend Group; the two of them have been leading the kitchen team since the restaurant’s reopening in 2021.
One of the highlights of this most famous Hungarian restaurant is its terrace, which takes centre stage every year from early summer onwards. Last year, new paving, perennial and annual plants, and harmonious, ergonomic surfaces further enhanced the beauty of this spot, where leading actors and writers once dined on the famous dishes.
