The past and present of Hungarian hospitality came together on Sunday 18 October at the Gundel Restaurant, where one of the industry’s most prestigious awards was presented for the eleventh time. This year, the Károly Gundel Award was presented to Zoltán Kóbor, Árpád László and Ilona Zsidai His work has been recognised. Our on-the-spot report follows.

The Hungarian Catering Trade Association (MVI) presented the Károly Gundel Awards for the eleventh time; these awards recognise the work of those whose lives and achievements make them worthy successors to the legacy of the award’s namesake.

It is no coincidence that the industry refers to this award as the ‘Kossuth Prize of the hospitality sector’. The nominees were selected by a nineteen-member expert panel through a secret ballot. The significance of this accolade is further underlined by the fact that previous winners include leading figures from Hungarian gastronomy, the hospitality sector, the hotel industry and professional representative bodies.

Whenever two more horse-drawn carriages arrived, they always came one after the other

The venue itself provided a striking backdrop for the ceremony. For over a century, the name Gundel has been inextricably linked with the finest in Hungarian hospitality:

with the philosophy that a restaurant does not merely serve food, but also conveys an experience, culture and hospitality.

The history of catering in the City Park dates back further than the name ‘Gundel’ became well known. In the 19th century, the park was a favourite destination for the capital’s residents, where walks, outdoor entertainment and visits to restaurants formed part of the life of the city’s middle classes. The Wampetics restaurant, considered the predecessor of today’s restaurant, was already a popular meeting place even before the Gundel family arrived on the scene.

Károly Gundel took over the restaurant in 1910 and turned it into a gastronomic centre whose reputation extended far beyond Hungary’s borders. The restaurant enjoyed one of its most glorious periods during the interwar years. Leading figures in Budapest’s social life at the time, politicians, artists and foreign guests alike were regular visitors here.

The image of the horse-drawn carriages captures the atmosphere of the restaurant culture of that era well: once the guests had arrived at the park, a separate carriage might also have arrived to provide musical accompaniment for the meal and the festivities. The gypsy band, the laid tables, the bustling atmosphere of the garden terrace and the carefully composed dishes were all part of a hospitality tradition in which dining was regarded as a social occasion.

One of the key dates in Gundel’s heyday was 1926: a hundred years ago, the restaurant was already one of the most important venues in the Hungarian hospitality industry. At this year’s Sunday celebration László Kovács, The chairman of the MVI also referred to this year, pointing out that the theatre was able to enjoy its heyday despite the economic difficulties.

This historical parallel is particularly relevant today. The hospitality industry continues to face numerous challenges, but quality, professional dedication and attention to guests are values that remain timeless, even in changing circumstances.

„We must celebrate the profession’s leading figures”

In his opening address, Chairman László Kovács began by thanking the professional community that had helped organise the awards ceremony, the sponsors and the guests in attendance. In his speech, he emphasised the significance of the Károly Gundel Award, which is not only about recognising individual achievements but also about passing on the traditions of Hungarian hospitality.

As he recalled, previous recipients include professionals whose work has had a defining influence on the industry. The award provides an opportunity for outstanding figures in the hospitality sector to receive the recognition they deserve from a wider public.

The chairman of the MVI also recalled the year 1926, a hundred years ago. He explained that, even amidst difficult economic circumstances at the time, Gundel was enjoying its heyday, which serves as a reminder that professional excellence and solidarity can provide a lifeline even amidst today’s challenges.

Speaking about the award winners, he made a point of emphasising that all three embody the values of the Hungarian hospitality industry in their respective fields: from education and the training of the next generation of professionals, through the running of hospitality businesses, to the preservation of gastronomic traditions.

The Gundel legacy: hospitality, culture and diplomacy

On behalf of Eventrend, which operates the Gundel Restaurant Zoltán Kőrössy welcomed the participants.

In his speech, he pointed out that Gundel has become a legend not only because of its flavours and culinary excellence. The restaurant, situated in the heart of the City Park, is also one of the best-known symbols of Hungarian hospitality.

The significance of Károly Gundel’s work lay in the fact that he cultivated the art of hospitality as a form of culture of the highest order, as a means of building international relations, and as an integral part of diplomacy. The restaurant thus became not merely a place to eat, but an important venue for showcasing Hungarian gastronomy on the international stage.

Three life stories, three different professional legacies

This year’s Károly Gundel Awards were presented to Zoltán Kóbor, Árpád László and Ilona Zsidai. They represent three different professional paths, with varying experiences and achievements, but what they share is a commitment to the values of Hungarian hospitality.

Zoltán Kóbor – a mentor to future generations

Zoltán Kóbor is a leading figure in vocational training for the hospitality industry. One of the most important aspects of his work is preparing the professionals of the future, passing on professional knowledge and laying the foundations for a commitment to the hospitality sector. In the hospitality industry, a good professional is not made overnight: alongside technical skills, one must also learn the right mindset, a sense of responsibility, a guest-centred approach and professional humility. The work of trainers therefore shapes the future of the entire sector.

Árpád László – an entrepreneurial mindset and experience in the hospitality industry

The name Árpád László is closely associated with the world of hospitality entrepreneurship in Hungary. Recognition of his work also draws attention to the fact that, in the hospitality industry, professional expertise must go hand in hand with economic viability, organisational skills and an understanding of guests’ needs. After all, to establish a hospitality business that enjoys lasting success, good cuisine alone is not enough: consistent operations, the right team and a long-term perspective are also essential.

Ilona Zsidai – carrying on the family tradition of hospitality

Ilona Zsidai is a representative of the well-known family business tradition in the Hungarian hospitality industry. The history of the Zsidai Gastronomy Group is a fine example of how family heritage, business acumen and the preservation of Hungarian gastronomic traditions can be combined in the hospitality industry. In her case, too, the Károly Gundel Award recognises the value embodied in the knowledge passed down through the generations, her commitment to hospitality and her contribution to the development of the profession.

Five courses, several chefs, Hungarian wines and genuine Gundel classics

The awards ceremony was accompanied by a five-course gala lunch, organised with the collaboration of several chefs and hospitality industry professionals. The festive menu showcased both the traditions of Hungarian cuisine and how classic flavours can be presented with a modern twist.

Guests were welcomed with sparkling wines on arrival: as well as the François President Brut from the François Sparkling Wine Cellars, they were also able to sample sparkling wines from the Gottwald Winery.

Among the canapés at the standing reception, profiteroles filled with truffle cream, prawn tails with a Thousand Islands dressing, and foie gras pâté with red onion chutney represented the lighter, more elegant starters. The more traditional Hungarian offerings were represented by Mangalica ham sliced on the spot, freshly fried crackling, potato scones fried in Mangalica lard, smoked meats, Mangalica rillettes and smoked knuckle of pork aspic served with homemade horseradish in vinegar. The selection also included homemade strudel with cabbage and sour cream.

The first course of the lunch is the Tasty Hungary: Goulash which was created by Zoltán Vidák in collaboration with the METRO Gastronomy Academy. It was paired with the Authentic Borműhely Kunsági Kadarka Siller 2024.

Served as a hot starter Gundel-style fish soup paid tribute to the restaurant’s traditions. The meal was prepared by Ernő Parcsetich and Krisztián Balogh, chefs at the VakVarjú restaurants in Budapest. The dish was paired with a glass of Steigler Winery’s Soproni Furmint 2023.

The main course was based on a combination of Mangalica pork tenderloin and duck liver Wellington with truffles, served with carrots and beetroot. The dish was created in collaboration with László Ruprecht, technical director of the Stílusos Vidéki Éttermiség. It was paired with the Kolna Feketeleányka 2023 wine from the Balla Géza Winery.

For dessert, the restaurant served Gundel’s classics – thanks to the fine weather, once again on the terrace, just as with the starters. Guests could choose from a selection put together by the Gundel Restaurant’s pastry team – with the collaboration of Györgyi Dudok, Róbert Vérten and András Wolf: Somlói galuska, Esterházy cake, Rákóczi cottage cheese cake and Gundel chocolate cake – all evoking the traditions of Hungarian confectionery and the restaurant itself. The desserts were accompanied by a selection of Tokaji dessert wines from the István Kiss Family Winery.

The wines served with the meal were provided by Gottwald Winery, Steigler Winery, Balla Géza Winery and Kiss István Family Winery. For the award ceremony toast, glasses were filled with Steigler Winery’s 2024 brut nature organic Zöldveltelini sparkling wine, produced using traditional methods, whilst beer lovers were treated to a tasting from HopTop Brewery. Sommelier Mihály Fabók was responsible for selecting the wines.