On 23 September, Gyula Berkes, of the Biarritz restaurant in Budapest, as well as Szabolcs Dudás and Szilárd Dudás, the owners of the Anyukám Mondta restaurant in Encs, received this year’s Károly Gundel Awards from Chairman László Kovács at the Hungarian Museum of Trade and Hospitality.

The Hungarian Catering Trade Association was founded in 2014 with the extensive involvement of domestic professional organisations in memory of perhaps the greatest icon of the Hungarian catering industry, and in his memory, with the broad involvement of domestic professional organisations, it established the Károly Gundel Award in 2014. The award is presented to individuals who, within the field of Hungarian hospitality, exemplify Károly Gundel’s life and gastronomic legacy.

This year, too, the winners were selected by delegates from 13 professional organisations and 3 institutions, as well as a representative of the Gundel restaurant and the Gundel family, based on the nominees’ bodies of work. //

Gyula Berkes – Biarritz (Budapest)

He has been working in the hospitality industry for 46 years; he worked at the Szabadság Hotel, the Kis Royal in Buda, the Parliament Restaurant, and then the Aranyhordó Restaurant; he has been the owner of the Biarritz Restaurant since 1995.

He has always been deeply committed to education: numerous trainee chefs and waiters have received practical training under his guidance. He is Vice-President of the Hungarian Catering Trade Association, and a member of VIMOSZ, the Pannon Gastronomic Academy and the Hungarian Bocuse d’Or Academy. In recognition of his work in preserving traditions and promoting Hungarian cuisine, he received the European Gastronomy Award in 2010; in 2004, he was named Restaurateur of the Year, and in 2016 he was awarded the Bronze Cross of Merit of the Republic of Hungary.

‘It would be difficult to rank the honours I’ve received during my career,’ says Gyula Berkes, ‘ but this certainly holds similar value to the Cross of Merit I was awarded five years ago, and, crucially, the Gundel Prize was awarded to me by unanimous agreement of the entire Hungarian culinary profession – I wouldn’t swap it for Michelin stars. I believe in myself, I believe in the concept of my restaurant, but this recognition came as a pleasant surprise. Of course, these awards do not change my values or my way of thinking, as I have always worked for the sake of my guests, and I intend to continue doing so.

I have been running Biarritz as its owner for over two decades. I didn’t want to get involved in fine dining; I don’t believe in reimagining dishes: I’d say my restaurant’s culinary style is most similar to that of a French brasserie – a small eatery serving quality local produce. I try to stick to the ‘farm-to-table’ principle; I keep animals in the countryside wherever possible and use them as ingredients. //

Szabolcs Dudás and Szilárd Dudás – My Mum Said (Encs)

The brothers’ restaurant, ‘Anyukám Mondta’ in Encs, gradually gained a reputation from 1995 onwards; today it is regarded as the best provincial restaurant. The Dudás brothers are obsessed with sourcing high-quality Italian and Hungarian ingredients; Szabolcs is the chef in their kitchen, whilst Szilárd handles management duties. In 2013, the Gault&Millau restaurant guide named them the best of the year. In 2017, their second restaurant, Pizza, Kávé Világbéke, opened in Miskolc, followed in 2020 by Pizza Brumbrum Világbéke in Eger.

They are committed to training the next generation of professionals, whilst continuously developing their own skills. They are members of the PGA, SVÉT and the Bocuse d’Or Academy. Among their accolades are: winners of the Prima Primissima award, they were named Restaurateurs of the Year in 2017, their restaurant in Miskolc was awarded the title of Alternative Restaurant of the Year in 2019 and 2021, and La Liste has ranked them amongst the world’s top 1,000 restaurants.

‘We’ve been in the hospitality industry all our lives,’ said Szilárd Dudás after receiving the award, ‘but this success is the result of more than 100 years’ work, as we’ve both worked alongside our partners throughout the restaurant’s 26 years of operation.’.

Whatever the case, this is the finest day of our careers. The Gundel Award is one of the highest honours a Hungarian restaurateur can receive. It confirms that we are creating value, whilst at the same time serving as an inspiration: it gives us the strength to continue working in keeping with the spirit of Károly Gundel, and supports us in what is most important to us as restaurant owners: maintaining our guests’ appreciation and ensuring we are always fully booked.

Szabolcs Dudás added that the award is all the more significant given that ‘Anyukám Mondta’ achieved its success in an area with no tourist attractions nearby. //