„We didn’t want to rethink it, but to rethink it,” András Wolf, head chef at Gundel Corporate, told Index, as a contemporary take on Pope John Paul II’s former menu was presented to us. The meat-free, Lenten-inspired sequence of dishes is at once surprisingly light, deeply flavourful and restrainedly elegant: a menu that doesn’t set out to be anything more than what it is – but that is precisely why it works. We worked our way through the menu at Gundel that was served to the Pope in 1996, and which still perfectly illustrates what it means to speak of a living tradition.

There is something particularly reassuring about an institution that is over a century old not feeling the need to reinvent itself at all costs, but rather demonstrating just how confident it is in its own past. The latest addition to Gundel’s „Celebrities” Menus’ series, the gala menu marking Pope John Paul II’s 1996 visit to Hungary, is exactly that: understated, elegant, surprisingly light – and utterly delicious in every bite.

The menu is essentially based on Lenten-inspired, meat-free dishes, which is particularly refreshing today, in this era of overloaded fine-dining tasting menus. The menu opens with wild mushrooms sautéed in butter, served with brioche and veal jus, offering deep, rounded flavours: the earthy aroma of the mushrooms and the silky jus lend the starter a sense of sophistication, whilst the brioche maintains the dish’s playfulness. This is not „concept cuisine”, but rather classic flavours executed with precision – and this characterises the entire menu from start to finish.

This fragrant, cumin-infused soup with vegetables and poached quail’s eggs may initially bring to mind memories of school canteens, but at Gundel this dish is taken to a whole new level. Refined, clean and surprisingly complex – the caraway isn’t overpowering, but rather provides a spicy backdrop against which the sweetness of the vegetables and the creaminess of the eggs shine. It’s the sort of soup you happily spoon your way through, only to realise you’ve finished it before you know it.

The main course, roast pike-perch Gundel-style, is undoubtedly the highlight of the menu. The fish is succulent and cooked to perfection, whilst the accompaniments and sauce do not overpower it but rather bring out its flavours. This dish serves as a reminder of why the Gundel pike-perch has become a classic: there is nothing superfluous about it, just quality ingredients, technique and a sense of balance. The dessert, the vanilla, chocolate and walnut „Pannonhalmok”, is a fitting finale: light, elegant, not too sweet, and more memorable than over-the-top.

„We didn’t want to rethink it, but to think it through”

András Wolf, co-owner of the Eventrend Group and the group’s corporate chef, spoke to Index about how the menu came about. As he explains, both the order and the symbolism were important in the „Celebrities” Menus„ series. ”Countless celebrities have visited the Gundel, and we established an order that was important to us. Queen Elizabeth was followed by Pope John Paul II – I don’t think I need to explain why,” he said. Two menus were prepared for the Pope’s visit in 1996, and the current version has been put together from elements of those.

The menu looked more or less like this back then as well. One of the dishes came with strudel, whilst the other featured the Pannonhalom dessert, which is why we thought we’d feature it here.

A meat-free diet is not simply a trend that has emerged in recent times, but a historical reality.

When John Paul II visited Hungary, it was Lent, so he did not eat meat. What’s interesting is that broths made from bones are permitted during Lent, which is how the veal broth came to be served with the mushroom starter.

– said András Wolf, who gave a firm answer to the question of how this menu fits into Gundel’s current offering: „One of Gundel’s roles is to preserve tradition; the other is to innovate. This menu delivers on both counts. ’96 is now history, a tradition. The way it is prepared, however, is very much in the style of today’s Gundel.” Innovation, however, does not manifest itself in spectacular technical tricks.

We didn’t want to rethink anything, but rather to think it through. To work out what makes a caraway seed soup really good. We all have memories of it from the school canteen, and that didn’t put us off – it motivated us.

András Wolf also spoke about the importance of detail: „We work with very intense flavours; consistency and texture matter a great deal. But the underlying principle is always that it must be prepared to the highest standard. It even matters how sharp the knife is when chopping fresh herbs – because that’s where the flavour is determined.”

The episode of the „Celebrities” Menu’ series relating to Pope John Paul II’s 1996 visit to Hungary commemorates the millennium of the founding of the Benedictine Archabbey of Pannonhalma. The lunch and dinner served during the Pannonhalma programme were prepared by the Gundel team of the time.

The menu was curated by Kálmán Kalla, who had spent months preparing for the task. The sequence of courses, tailored to the Pope’s Lenten regime, was understated and restrained, yet still embodied the professional precision and richness of flavour characteristic of Gundel. Alongside strict protocol and precise timing, personal attention also played a key role – this duality remains part of Gundel’s legacy to this day.

A tradition that hasn’t gathered dust

The unveiling of the Pope John Paul II II menu took place as part of the press conference for the Gundel Ball 2026, the theme of which this year is „Among the Stars”. The guests of honour at the ball on 7 February will be iconic figures from Hungarian space exploration, whilst the aim of the event remains unchanged: to create a communal experience, not an exclusive elite event. This also aligns closely with Eventrend Group’s objectives for this year, as the group has made community-building events one of its key priorities at a corporate level.

Gundel’s history, spanning more than 130 years, is precisely about this. Alongside world-famous guests, queens and artists, there was always room for everyday hospitality: beer, pretzels and eggs in stew sauce were just as much at home on the terrace as festive feasts. Under the leadership of Károly Gundel, the restaurant combined the best elements of Hungarian and French cuisine, introducing dishes to Hungarian gastronomy that are now indispensable.

The core of Gundel’s menu has been in place for more than 80 years. 

The iconic dishes of the „National 11” – from goulash soup to Gundel pancakes – still convey the message today that tradition is not a museum piece, but a living practice. And Pope John Paul II’s menu proves precisely this: it can be at once respectful, contemporary and – without any pretension – simply delicious.

In 2021, the Eventrend Group took over the running of the iconic Gundel and Bagolyvár restaurants, undertaking to preserve a heritage stretching back more than a century. The company’s directors said at the time: „This is a momentous occasion in our lives! Gundel is a matter of national importance, a world-famous family brand.” Founding owners Zoltán Kőrössy and Gábor Nagy added: „Our aim is to ensure that the Gundel experience is not just accessible to a privileged few, but that anyone can enjoy it.” Since the takeover, they have been combining the restaurant’s traditions and reputation with their expertise in modern hospitality and event management, paying close attention to every detail.

Gundel is not merely a restaurant, but a symbol of Hungarian culture and gastronomic heritage.

As dedicated enthusiasts, the staff at Eventrend Group cherish the venue’s traditions; their aim is to make the Gundel experience accessible to everyone: Hungarian and international guests alike, as well as restaurant diners and event attendees. „Gundel is ours – and so it can be everyone’s,” they summarise, emphasising that shared care and openness keep the value and charm of this more than century-old institution alive.

This sponsored editorial content was produced in collaboration with the Eventrend Group.